Is it just MrMartha, or does the model in this sketch look suspiciously like a very young Joan Collins?
Here, the classic New Look silhouette from the late 40's is taken forward into the fifties with just a bit of streamlining (though still yards of skirt) and some very modern detailing in the origami folds of the bodice -- which are again today at the fashion forefront, in John Galliano's recent Haute Couture collections for Christian Dior.
Showing posts with label Vintage Fashion Sketch. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vintage Fashion Sketch. Show all posts
Tuesday, January 26, 2010
Conception Classique de Mode de la Semaine
Monday, November 2, 2009
Conception Classique de Mode de la Semaine
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MrMartha offers up some vintage fashion confections with a double shot of pink today.
The mid fifites were really the apex of giant ballgowns, and these two sumptuous designs certainly illustrate that particular point in all of its voluminous lushness.
The strapless gown with the twisted bodice detailing is reminiscent of many gowns worn in sophisticated 50's comedies, but something about it just screams "There's No Business Like Show Business" and the image of Ethel Merman shoehorned into it.
The gown with the off the shoulder ruched detailing is strongly reminiscent of something Audrey Hepburn could have worn in "Roman Holiday" and every inch the princess she would have been!
Viewed together the designs have stepped right out of another Audrey Hepburn movie, "Funny Face" -- and the fabulous Think Pink montage which ends with models in giant pink ballgowns twirling around amid confetti to song lyrics:
"Go out dancing, but just remember one thing....
you can get a little wink
if you got a little pink
In your swing....."
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
Conception Classique de Mode de la Semaine
La Belle Mariee
And what a beautiful bride she is.
Another of MrMartha's collection of vintage fashion illustrations, this time a somewhat austere, but most elegant, bridal gown.
While most 50's wedding dresses tend to be thought of as giant ball gown meringues, dripping with lace and full of fussy details, this wonderful exception to the rule is in a class all by itself!
Incredibly simple, with high neckline and three quarter fitted sleeves, the detail and interest coming from gathers along the bodice seams down through the hips, and the attached train at the hips. One can imagine the gown made in heavy satin, or other ultra luxe but simple fabric. While the illustration shows only a small wrapped pillbox cap, it is easy to picture a long luxurious cloud of fine tulle trailing as a veil.
One other interesting note, the bridal bouquet, showing the then current fashion of large sprays of flowers tied with wide satin bows, a wonderful contrast against the simplicity of the gown.
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
Conception Classique de Mode de la Semaine
Late 50s fashion became more architectural and streamlined. Some of the fussier details prevalent since the late 1940s became more subdued, forms came to rely more on sculpting than copious fabric volume. Not that there wasn't still plenty of volume involved! The Dior influence was still strongly felt, but this is also when the more modern Hubert de Givenchy came into his own, reaching prominence through his film wardrobe for Audrey Hepburn in Sabrina, and patronage by prominent families like the Kennedys.
MrMartha presents today a gorgeous design for a tea length gown, certainly intended for after five, but wearable to all but the most formal evening events as well. The princess lines swoop from the strapless bodice to the very full but controlled skirt. Quantities of crinoline petticoats worn beneath the heavy overlay of lace would have ensured the shaping. The addition of the lace Fichu, a capelet tied at the front, gives a distinctly french flair to the ensemble.
The design does owe a strong debt to Givenchy, and MrMartha can imagine it being worn in one of those wonderful 50's musical films, the model in the sketch bearing a strong resemblance to actress Vera-Ellen, star of films like Call Me Madam.
Thursday, May 14, 2009
Conception Classique de Mode de la Semaine
MrMartha loves fifties era fashion, and has amassed a great collection of midcentury fashion design sketches .
The 1950's were a restrictive time in many ways, and fashion reflected that as well. While the designs and the lines of the clothing are amazing, MrMartha can't imagine they were much fun to wear, given the medieval corsetry and quantity of foundation garments required to make the looks work.
Still, they are amazing as a concept and fun to look back upon. MrMartha hopes you will enjoy viewing some of the designs from his archive.
Today's style shows two variations that capture some of the main essences of 50's fashion -- the narrow 'dressmaker' suit, and the large full skirted dress that had been popular since Dior's New Look of the 1940's. Both are topped off with self jacket details, and that other 50's essential, interest at the bustline....despite the prudishness of the 50's, there was certainly no lack of interest in the bust!
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